Archive for January, 2010

Good Shadows, Bad Shadows

January 12, 2010

Shadows from the past = Bad

Shadows while you played hop-scotch as a kid = Good

Shadows from skin discoloration, divets, and loss of elasticity = Bad

Shadows that make your features appear more attractive = Good

What makes a “good” Before vs. After photo for Corrective Makeup is the elimination and creation of shadows.

I contoured to enhance good shadows such as a sculpted cheekbone and straight nose, while I  highlighted areas such as the eye to minimize the darkness and create a fuller cheek.

Natural shadows will compete with the shadows created in makeup, so I have to eliminate the “bad” ones first. The “bad” highlight color should be a few shades lighter than your highlight color. Think of this as a flesh-toned “White Out”.

The main unwanted shadows on my model were the ones in the corners of her eyes, which made her eyes appear droopy and tired. By eliminating the bad shadows with concealer (warm peach = light yellow+orange), it made her eyes appear more open and less puffy.

Study your face in a picture or in the mirror to see if there are any areas that are darker than the rest of your face that you find unflattering. Next time you do your makeup, be sure to “White Out” that area. Tell me about your results!

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Mature Makeup

January 8, 2010

Makeup for Grandma is definitely different from yours or your mom’s. Two major adjustments in makeup application include the types of products used and the intensity of color:

The types of products used need to be tailored for the characteristics of aged skin.

Foundation: As we age, skin becomes dryer (less oil production and slower natural exfoliation process), so you want to use a dewy or semi-matte liquid foundation. Cream is too heavy and draw attention to dehydration and uneven skin texture. You little to no loose powder to set the foundation.

Matte colors: Generally, you should NOT use shimmer because it can look dated on a older face and will draw more attention to wrinkles and loss of elasticity.  Avoid shimmers mainly in eye shadows and lip color. But, you can venture out with blush because the cheek color is supposed to be transparent anyway and won’t reflect as obviously as the other products.

The intensity of colors should be appropriate for the age of the client, generally speaking. Of course, give more drama to the divas and fashionistas that ask for it.

For a natural look, you want to keep colors neutral in light to medium shades. For my model, who is 65, she had dark hair (thanks to permanent color) and dark eyes, so I could afford to use darker shades of brown. Also, I wanted to contour (push back or cause recession) on the prominent part of her eye socket to make her eyelid appear more like a consistent plane.

How many years younger do you think she looks now?

Behind These Hazel Eyes

January 7, 2010

Behind these hazel eyes, lies a girl who wears little to no makeup on a daily basis. I used corrective makeup to enhance her natural beauty while making sure she’d still feel comfortable in her own skin.

In order to bring out the green in her hazel eyes, I used eye shadows in colors directly complimenting her green. Derivations of red for her was dusty rose, red brown, and burgundy black. In order to bring out the golden flecks in the pupils and lighten the appearance of her eye, I used a yellow-toned flesh base.

In order to expand her lips and make them appear more full, I used a nude lip color and a gold shimmery gloss on top. My instructor at Empire Academy of Makeup, Donna Mee, calls them “booty shaker lips.” Because when you’re lips are that juicy, you’d shake your booty when you walk.

I don’t know if she left shaking her booty, but she was sure smiling.

glamOh does glamOur

January 7, 2010

“Glamour” can mean many styles of makeup, from old school to modern. Traditionally, though, it describes vintage makeup of old Hollywood in the 1940’s.

Glamour makeup is marked by dramatic characteristics such as winged eyeliner, defined brows, and red lips. Though sheer coverage and the appearance of natural skin is usually the goal for foundation, this look requires a  slightly fuller coverage for the illusion of a perfect complexion. Don’t forget false lashes, too!

Truth be told, this look doesn’t look fabulous on all faces and personalities. But, that doesn’t mean you can’t adapt elements for it to work for you. Be daring and try it for yourself!

Smiling after Makeover

Photos from the Mink Coat Mini Shoot

Learn to Layer

January 5, 2010

My model has a pretty clear complexion. However, the patches of freckles on her cheeks took away from her otherwise even-looking skin.

Before I applied foundation, I made a tinted green moisturizer by mixing my Embroylisse moisturizer (Lait-Crème Concentrè) with Make Up For Ever’s corrective loose powder to cancel some of the redness in her cheeks. You can also use a tinted makeup base such as the one made by Smashbox.

My model typically zuses heavier coverage foundation to cover up the hyperpigmentation. Instead of going full coverage all over (because she doesn’t need it), I used a sheer layer of liquid foundation all over first. Then, to address the freckles, I used layers of foundation as a concealer. I didn’t use a traditional cream concealer as I did not want it to look heavy or spotty. For more coverage, you can use a powder foundation on top of the loose powder.

Freckles or dark spots on the face are caused by sun damage. The skin is actually trying to create a shield on your face to prevent burning. In order to reduce the appearance of unwanted dark splotches, you should invest in basic skin care that is brightening or whitening. In addition, you can use a corrective produce such as fade cream. Dermablend’s famous product is now discontinued, but you can find it on Amazon.com or E-bay. Alternatives can be found under Hyperpigmentation sections of department stores.