Archive for the ‘corrective makeup’ Category

Good Shadows, Bad Shadows

January 12, 2010

Shadows from the past = Bad

Shadows while you played hop-scotch as a kid = Good

Shadows from skin discoloration, divets, and loss of elasticity = Bad

Shadows that make your features appear more attractive = Good

What makes a “good” Before vs. After photo for Corrective Makeup is the elimination and creation of shadows.

I contoured to enhance good shadows such as a sculpted cheekbone and straight nose, while I  highlighted areas such as the eye to minimize the darkness and create a fuller cheek.

Natural shadows will compete with the shadows created in makeup, so I have to eliminate the “bad” ones first. The “bad” highlight color should be a few shades lighter than your highlight color. Think of this as a flesh-toned “White Out”.

The main unwanted shadows on my model were the ones in the corners of her eyes, which made her eyes appear droopy and tired. By eliminating the bad shadows with concealer (warm peach = light yellow+orange), it made her eyes appear more open and less puffy.

Study your face in a picture or in the mirror to see if there are any areas that are darker than the rest of your face that you find unflattering. Next time you do your makeup, be sure to “White Out” that area. Tell me about your results!

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Behind These Hazel Eyes

January 7, 2010

Behind these hazel eyes, lies a girl who wears little to no makeup on a daily basis. I used corrective makeup to enhance her natural beauty while making sure she’d still feel comfortable in her own skin.

In order to bring out the green in her hazel eyes, I used eye shadows in colors directly complimenting her green. Derivations of red for her was dusty rose, red brown, and burgundy black. In order to bring out the golden flecks in the pupils and lighten the appearance of her eye, I used a yellow-toned flesh base.

In order to expand her lips and make them appear more full, I used a nude lip color and a gold shimmery gloss on top. My instructor at Empire Academy of Makeup, Donna Mee, calls them “booty shaker lips.” Because when you’re lips are that juicy, you’d shake your booty when you walk.

I don’t know if she left shaking her booty, but she was sure smiling.

Rainbow Eyes

December 28, 2009

Since my model has wonderful skin, I didn’t want to cover it up with heavy foundation (see previous post for more on Foundation). I kept is as sheer as possible to keep it natural, but used adequate amounts of lighter and darker cream foundation colors to make her face appear slimmer and more symmetrical.

Contour/Highlight

Her forehead is narrower than the rest of her face, so I used highlight along the hairline to expand it. I used contour along the sides of her face, especially on her right as it is slightly wider than her left. Lastly, I used contour on the lower part of her chin to round it out.

Using contour on her cheeks to enhance the bone made her face look slimmer.

To make the top portion of her bridge pop, I used highlight and blended downwards into the more prominent part of her nose.

Eyebrows

She has light faded red-brown permanent color on her brows. Instead of using a shade that matched her brow and hair color, which would appear too harsh for what she is used to, I filled in the shape with a brow powder in the same shade as the tattoos.

Eyes

Rainbow eyes are eye shapes that have more curvature on one side. In her case, the top is more open, whereas the bottom is more flat.

I used a white eyeliner pencil on her lower inner rim to open up her eyes. Then, a medium-thick dark brown eyeliner pencil on the lower lashline focusing on extending the line upwards to make her eyes appear more uptilt. They are naturally uptilt, but due to her eye crease going downwards past the corner of her eye, they appear more even to downcast.

On the top lashline, I tapered the upper eyeliner pencil thicker towards the outer corners and winged the eyeliner in the same angle as the lower lash line. If I were to apply an even coat of eyeliner on the top lash line following her eye shape and wing it (see “Before”), it will only accentuate the downwards curvature in the outer ends of the eyes.

Vibrant personality and fashion sense? I used cool pinks and mauves to match, really bringing out her cheeks and full lips.

Nobody Nose

December 23, 2009

Nobody knows the nose you have ain’t what your mama gave you. Or your cheeks, brows, lips…

Here are some corrective makeup application techniques I used to enhance this brown-eyed girl.

Conceal

Cancel out the blue-ish dark circles underneath the eyes

Highlight

Add light foundation to eyes and beneath the eyes (upper portion of cheek)

Add light foundation to the upper bridge of the nose towards the forehead to add the illusion of bone

Foundation

Apply foundation in her perfect shade on the rest of the face

Set the whole face with two loose powders  – one that is a true match and one that is a lighter shade for the highlighted areas

Contour – Her foundation color mixed with matte, charcoal grey (or you can use a darker, neutral brown) cream foundation

1. “Corners” of her face to make more oval

2. Emphasize her existing cheek bones to make her cheeks appear more full and the entire face slimmer

3. “Facelift” by adding to the arch in the brow toward the hairline in a 45 degree angle

4. Add dark color to the sides of the nose to draw attention to the bridge

Cheeks

I mixed a neutral brown and rose lipstick for her cream blush with a synthetic/natural bristle brush.  You can use M.A.C.’s  “skunk brush” and bounce the brush on top of the cheeks lightly. A sweeping motion with give you an uneven finish and will spread color out too much.

Brows

I filled in her right brow with more color on top to make them the same height as the left. I added a “peak” in each brow arch to make them less curved, more arched and tapered. Using a a spoolie (i.e. mascara wand), I lightly combed through the brows to groom the hairs and to diffuse the color in the borders to make them less harsh.

Eyes

To emphasize her lash line, I used a dark brown eye liner pencil on her lower lash line, but a black one on her upper. I used an eye smudger to gradiate the color from the lash line upwards to blend in with the eye shadow.

For color,  I used  flesh-tone, light brown, medium brown, and black eye shadow colors to make her eyes appear bigger and lifted. To emphasize the lash line further, I applied a thin line of black cake liner.

Then,  I curled the lashes twice to open up her eyes and used black mascara on top. Since the attention of the eyes should be lifted, I only applied a very light coat of dark brown on the bottom.

Lips

I used a neutral brown lip liner to outline and fill in her lips followed by a custom-mixed brown + rose pink + deep pink lipstick for her color.

Voila!

Don’t worry! Mama will still be able to recognize you. Corrective makeup should be natural and convincing real to the unknowing eye. Were you fooled?

Mom and Magical Makeup

December 22, 2009

A “Before vs. After” photo can be deceiving because almost any woman probably looks better with some makeup.

At first glance, you may not have noticed, but this model has a lot of great things going for her: oval face shape, smooth and clear skin, almond uptilt eyes, and full lips (think, Asian Angelina).

I used corrective makeup application to enhance these assets.

Eyebrows

My key focus was evening out her brows. Before, her right eye appeared lower and more downcast than her left. This is because her right brow was lower and less arched. By tweezing/shaping and shading with color to make the brows even, her eyes appeared more even and open.

Cheeks

I contoured the underside of her cheekbone with a neutral brown + charcoal grey cream foundation. I applied cream blush on the apples of her cheeks towards her temples, including on top of the contour.

Tip: You can use lipstick as cream blush. If the consistency is too thick for you, add a tap of moisturizer. Cream blush is used on top of liquid/cream foundation. Once the face it set with powder, you should only use powder blush.

Nose

She has a fairly straight and visible bridge. I highlighted the very top part of the nose to make the bridge a little more prominent. Then, in order to draw more attention to lighter area, I contoured the sides and bottom of the nose.

Eyes

Dark eye liner on the inner rim makes the eyes appear smaller. For her, I skipped the inner rim and used a dark brown kohl eye liner pencil on her lower lash line and black on the upper. I didn’t draw all the way into the inner corners as my focus was on the outer corners to make the eyes look bigger and lifted.

With her yellow skin tone, I used complimenting eye shadow colors in the violet family (i.e. various shades of plums).

Lips

I defined the shape with a medium rose lip pencil and filled almost the entire lip. By coloring in the lips with liner first, lip color will wear better and colors go on more opaque and true.

Overall

Through corrective makeup, her face looks more slender with fuller cheeks and her eyes appear more open. There is a radiance about her…it could be the magic in the makeup, or the magic of motherhood.